At the heart of our recent collaborative Northern England Fibreshed event with Pasture for Life, was the celebration of regenerative farming—a holistic approach that focuses on revitalising and enhancing the entire farm ecosystem. Regenerative farming is not just about producing high-quality fibres but is about deeply nurturing the land, promoting biodiversity, and improving soil health.

Pasture for Life gathered farmers from our region who are passionate and interested in farming in this way, for an event instigated by project manager, Rob Bunn with mentor (and NEF coordinator) Mark Palmer. They heard presentations from Fibreshed lead Justine Aldersey-Williams who spoke about the origins of the UK Fibreshed movement and her work helping reintroduce native textile crops during the Homegrown Homespun and Woman Grows Jeans projects, Zoe Fletcher who studied British Wool breeds for her PhD and has since established The Wool Library to support both farmers and brands who want to work with the fibre, and Edward Sexton of Glencroft, a local Yorkshire company offering fully traceable woollen knitwear through their Clapdale Wool Project.

The event also hosted Kate Stalker from knitwear label and studio OUBAS in Cumbria and Ali Sharman and Carole Bowman, natural fibre spinners and weavers who were demonstrating and showcasing their regional textiles.

The event opened up conversations between textile practitioners and the farming community; serving as a platform to bridge the gap between those who cultivate the raw materials and those who transform them into beautiful, sustainable products.

Key Conversations Included:

• Understanding Fibre Quality: Farmers and textile experts discussed the nuances of fibre quality, delving into how farming practices directly impact the texture, strength, and durability of wool. This emphasised the importance of collaboration in achieving the highest standards of finished goods.
• Sustainable Practices: Both communities shared insights on sustainable practices, exploring how regenerative farming and eco-friendly textile production can work hand-in-hand to reduce environmental impact and promote sustainability across localised supply chains.
• Innovation and Craftsmanship: The event sparked conversations about innovation in textile design and craftsmanship, highlighting how traditional techniques can be enhanced with modern technology to produce exquisite, sustainable items.
• Building Relationships: By fostering direct connections, the event encouraged ongoing partnerships between farmers and textile practitioners. These relationships are crucial for ensuring a consistent supply of high-quality fibres and for supporting local economies.

Through these conversations, the event not only celebrated the value of natural fibres but also reinforced the collective commitment to a sustainable future in the industry. 

Pasture for Life Principles:

‘Grazing animals on 100% pasture brings positive impacts for biodiversity and carbon, human health and wellbeing, and animal health and welfare. Pasture for Life works on the ground, every day, to restore ecosystems, implement positive change in our food and farming systems, and demonstrate the benefits of 100% pasture fed’.

1. Soil Health: By minimising soil disturbance and promoting organic matter, regenerative practices enhance soil fertility and water retention, leading to healthier pastures and more resilient ecosystems.
2. Biodiversity: Encouraging a diverse range of plant species supports wildlife habitats and creates a balanced ecosystem that can thrive naturally without excessive intervention.
3. Carbon Sequestration: Through practices like rotational grazing, regenerative farming helps capture atmospheric carbon, playing a vital role in combating climate change.
4. Animal Welfare: Ensuring that livestock are raised in environments that mimic their natural habitats promotes healthier, happier animals, which in turn produce superior quality wool.

Holistic Nature of Pasture for Life Grazing:

Pasture for Life embraces a holistic grazing approach that aligns perfectly with regenerative principles. This method focuses on:

• Rotational Grazing: Livestock are moved regularly to fresh pastures, allowing the land to recover and regenerate, promoting robust plant growth and soil health.
• Natural Diets: Animals graze on diverse, nutrient-rich pastures, which enhances their well-being and results in wool of exceptional quality.
• Sustainable Land Management: By integrating livestock into the landscape in a way that supports natural cycles, Pasture for Life ensures the sustainability and vitality of the land for future generations.

Through these practices, we are not only producing exquisite textiles, but also contributing to a positive, symbiotic future. Fibreshed’s commitment to using the finest natural fibres aligns with these values, ensuring that every piece we craft is a testament to the beauty of nature and the importance of responsible stewardship.

Written by Kate Stalker of Oubas Knitwear

Cathy Wright is a spinner and weaver based in Liverpool and has been a member of Fibreshed since 2020.

A spinner with over 20 years experience Cathy came to spinning from an embroidery background, falling in love with textured yarns to use in her work.  This led to spinning wool for others and then to starting her own business in 2008 teaching others to spin.

“Wool is just an incredible resource and with each breed offering different properties it opens up so many options for us as craftspeople.  Choosing a particular breed, say one with fine lustrous fleece and spinning it in a way to keep the lustre can create a beautiful yarn to wear woven as a scarf.  If you want a hardwearing pair of socks for hiking, you’d choose a different breed, maybe a Texel or a Romney, something that may be slightly coarser to the touch but hard wearing, withstanding the friction walking would create.  Then, if you want a hat, you would choose a short stapled breed that can be spun to keep air in, keeping the wearer warmer.

Each breed has it’s own special properties and we are so fortunate in this country to have access to over 57 different types of breeds of wool at our fingertips. So for whatever project you have in mind, there will be a breed that will suit it down to the ground

Add to this the many ways that wool can be spun and you give the weaver, knitter or spinner complete control over the project they’re making, allowing them to get the best out of the fleece and the garment.  There are so many possibilities, so many things to learn about this humble product”

Cathy runs workshops for complete beginners through to advanced students and also runs a monthly meet up where spinners and weavers come together to share inspiration and ideas.

“My two day spinning workshop takes a fleece, shows you how to choose the good parts, wash it, comb it or card it and then spin it. I use fleeces from farmers I know who breed their fleece specifically for the wool so I know that when I put the work into processing and spinning the it, it will be well worth the effort.  This special relationship between farmer and spinner allows some of the rarer breeds – like Bluefaced Leicester, which produces the softest wool we have in this country and  is listed as ‘at risk’ by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust, to be utilised and valued”

“It’s incredibly important to keep skills like spinning alive and there is a very healthy spinning community in this country with wool festivals taking place throughout the year.  The future for spinning is bright

Upcoming Workshops

Jan 13th: Natural Dyeing

Jan 16th & 17th:    Learn to Weave

Jan 31st: Beginners Spinning

Feb 14th: Weave a Scarf

Feb 21st: Beginners Spinning

Feb 27th & 28th: Two Day Spinning 

All workshops take place at Northern Lights, Brewery Village, Liverpool L8 5AF

www.lazykatetextiles.co.uk

 Get one of the few remaining dye kits here N.B. T shirt shows an example of what you can dye and is not included in the kit.

Woad has such an ancient heritage in this land, it’s thought the name Britain came from ‘Pretani’ meaning ‘painted ones’ due to our indigenous ancestors love of decorating themselves with woad for ceremonies and prior to battle.

Today, in a world of fossil fuel colour transported from the other side of the world using more fossil fuels, wearing our humble blue is a radical act of rebellion and a chance to support decolonial clothing.

It’s not easy pioneering the reintroduction of textile crops to this country though! We’re up against big industries demanding ecocidal materials made artificially cheap by fossil fuel subsidies – and climate change.

After a year of weather resulting in many farmers losing multiple food crops, it seems comparatively trivial to mention that we lost our entire 4 acres of woad, although of course, it’s doesn’t feel trivial to us.

This is the reality of farming. You win some, you lose some. Working organically means having clever strategies for weed management that were totally scuppered by wet weather and water-logged soil this year. We’ll try again in 2025 and hope the weather’s on our side.

We were also impacted by logistics and the fact that Mark and I were trying to juggle extraction and processing from opposite sides of the country, while holding down other jobs. The reality was, having such rare skill concentrated in just two people made us more vulnerable to unexpected circumstances. We still believe in the logic and necessity of what we’re doing, but will be calling on additional support next year.

All this means our remaining 2023 dye kits are all the more precious to those who get the significance of what we’re trying to achieve. This isn’t just another product, it’s a chance to support the agroecological clothing movement, and we’d certainly appreciate your support.

Regardless of this news, those that manage to buy one of these special kits will get to wear a rare and beautiful blue indeed – a colour infused with a story of resilience.

Get your kit here

Sophie Hetherington Heywood’s business, ‘The Peg Loomer’ was focused on sustainability from the very start when she first learnt how to use a peg loom at an off grid community in Wales in 2020. Having returned home to Greater Manchester and asking on a local Facebook group for fleece she was shocked to discover how much local wool was going to waste.

“Since then I’ve been on a mission to utilise this wonderful resource that’s all around us. It’s been a steep learning curve, going from peg loom rugs, to felting, to having wool carded and spun at a mill for spinner and knitters. But I’ve had lots of support from the experts.”

Sophie sources wool from small farms in Yorkshire and Saddleworth and has it spun at Halifax Spinning Mill in Bridlington, East Yorkshire. “As well as all the help from Paul at the mill, I am very lucky to know Jacinta Bowie, a knitwear designer who lives down the road from the flock of Manx Loaghtan sheep who’s wool I first started working with. Jacinta is passionate about British wool, and kindly offered to create some knitwear patterns for me to give for free alongside the yarn. Her designs are gorgeous and have been really popular at wool shows”, Sophie adds.  

Sophie also uses the carded sliver in her peg loom rugs and felted creations, and when teaching others these crafts in her workshops. “I love that I can tell people exactly where this wool has come from, and many people really value that. I am focused on rare breeds, to help support farmers to continue to keep these breeds.” 

The Peg Loomer wools include Manx Loaghtan, Whitefaced Woodland, a blend of Whitefaced Woodland and Shetland, and soon Norfolk Horn, all in their natural colours. She has recently featured in Knitting Magazine’s British Wool Special. 

Upcoming workshops:

Sunday 20th October – Needle Felted Sheep Baa-bles at The Making Mill, Hebden Bridge 

Sunday 27th October – Peg Loom Weaving at Woodend Mill, Mossley, Greater Manchester

Sunday 3rd November – Peg Loom Weaving at The Making Mill, Hebden Bridge 

Saturday 23rd November – Circular Peg Loom Weaving (Advanced) at Hebble End Works, Hebden Bridge

Wednesday 4th December – Needle Felted Sheep Baa-bles at The Making Mill, Hebden Bridge 

Sunday 8th December – Needle Felted Sheep Baa-bles at Woodend Mill, Mossley

Wednesday 11th December – Needle Felted Owls at The Making Mill, Hebden Bridge

Sunday 15th December – Peg Loom Weaving at The Making Mill, Hebden Bridge

For more information visit www.thepegloomer.co.uk.

Do you work with natural fibres and/or dyes in Northern England? Are you interested in future-proofing your products or services by learning more about Fibreshed’s agroecological principles? Could you benefit from being part of a community working to create more opportunities for textile farmers, creative artisans, manufacturers and brands?

Join us at Heron Corn Mill for an informal gathering of founders, members and newcomers, where you can learn more about the Northern England Fibreshed. This is a chance to meet like-minded fibre and dye enthusiasts, find out how you can join or support our community and review what we’ve been working on during our first 4 years. There will be time to contribute to future collaborative plans and have a chat over a cuppa! Places are limited and must be reserved in advance. See you there!

RESERVE YOUR PLACE HERE

N.B. This is a free event and the voluntary organisers are thankful to Heron Corn Mill for offering their facilities without charge to support the Northern England Fibreshed. If you are also able to support us, please bring 2 pound coins (in the case of the venue) or donate to the NEF via smartphone on the day, but please note that donations are not required.

What will happen if an international community of textile growers unite to sow good intentions together? Let’s find out!

Join a global gathering of textile growers and enthusiasts for a ceremony of connection, deep listening, and collective intention-setting in service to two of our heritage textile crops, flax and indigo. Seed blessings have been an important tradition amongst earth stewards for millennia as they honour the animate forces of creation hidden within such a tiny potential. Seeds are alive with intelligence, energy, and a wisdom about their place in the web of life that many humans have forgotten.

Whisper your wishes

Connecting during an auspicious supernew moon and solar eclipse, we’ll journey in the imaginal realm through a relaxing guided meditation to meet the benevolent spirits of our historic textile plants. We’ll share visions of a regenerated future with the seeds so they may take root and thrive along with this year’s plants. Through our co-created blessing ritual, we’ll amplify a web of reverence for the growing season ahead.

In addition to being beautiful to wear, indigo blue has been revered worldwide for generations as a sacred colour and linen not only kept our ancestors warm but in the form of sail cloths and ropes, this ethereal yet strong plant helped people connect and communicate across the high seas. Both plants have been woven into the history of humanity and require a slow discipline from those wishing to transform them from seed to cloth. It may be that they are wisdom keepers enticing us towards the regenerated world we know in our hearts is possible.

Your seeds can be physical or metaphorical

What if you’re not growing indigo or flax this year? Join in service to the healing of humanity’s second skin anyway. Clothing is a basic human need and blue jeans are perhaps the most ubiquitous garment with over 2 billion pairs produced every year. Right now, almost all are dyed in harmful fossil fuel derivatives and are made from cotton sprayed with herbicides and pesticides which have contributed to climate breakdown. However, there is so much beautiful diversity to reclaim and the predominantly volunteer-run, international Fibershed network envisions a day when our clothing will resonate with stories of restoration. By joining forces at these events, you’ll be adding your support to this uprising of regeneration.

Thank you!

Your contribution will help fund the continuance of the Northern England Fibreshed, part of an international organisation advocating for agroecologically grown, locally produced textiles. If you are able to, please consider donating more than the minimum. You can attend one or both seed blessings which will take place:-

Indigo Seed Blessing: Monday 8th April 7:00pm – 8:15pm BST (British Summer Time)

Flax Seed Blessing: Monday 8th April 8:30pm – 9:45pm BST (British Summer Time

Did you choose indigo and flax, or did they choose you?

The relatively new ‘regenerative’ buzzword involves principles inspired by traditional and indigenous wisdom, a common feature of which is having a better understanding of humanity’s place in it’s ecosystem through the use of practices that engender communion with nature. 

Indigenous cultures are currently preserving 80% of global biodiversity yet make up only 5% of the global population*.

Those people haven’t done this by following Western science, economics or religion but by developing deep, intuitive relationships with the ‘more than human’ beings in their environment through meditation, prayer, ritual and initiation. 

“The Earth rests when we rest.” – Ayana Young

Earth Rests aim to inspire reverence for our planetary life support system through the embodied practice of Yoga Nidra. Yoga Nidra is an extended version of the relaxation at the end of a yoga class. It roughly translates to ‘unified sleep’ except you enter a liminal zone in between awake and asleep where deep healing and inspiration can take place.

There is nothing alternative about respecting your environment but if you’re struggling to connect the dots between relaxation and Earth stewardship, consider this. Carbon consumption is at the heart of our environmental crisis and closely linked with what has been called ‘grind culture’. Based on a study entitled, ‘stop the clock: The Environmental Benefits of a Shorter Working Week*’, shifting to a 4 day working week could save the UK 127 million tonnes of carbon per year. This means that if everyone in the UK practiced just one Earth Rest per month we could save 3 millions tonnes of carbon per year. Imagine if everyone just kept phones on but flicked off the power in their homes while listening?

Earth Rests are offered by Justine Aldersey-Williams, a qualified yoga teacher since 2006 and founding volunteer for the Northern England Fibreshed since March 2020. Your rest will support the regenerative movement and contributing as much as you’re able supports Justine’s voluntary work building a regenerative textile system in the heartland of the British textile industry.

They are offered free to those experiencing economic hardship with a ‘pay what you can’ invitation for those able to support the Fibreshed cause. Earth Rests will be released at the seasonal turning points beginning with today’s Autumn Equinox meditation.

What do you need to do? NOTHING!

But preparing a comfortable place to lie down where you won’t be disturbed for 20 minutes is a good idea! Gather cushions, blankets and socks (as your body naturally cools when you relax) and then simply listen or don’t listen! Your awareness will come and go as you switch channels from everyday consciousness to a more relaxed, alert brainwave frequency. You’ve experienced this natural state many times before but might not have noticed. It’s a bit like when you’ve just woken up in the morning or are just drifting off to sleep.

You may like to keep a journal to record whether you feel different afterwards and please feel free to share your feedback via our contact page.

I’d like to acknowledge the support I’ve had during this time including all those both regionally and internationally within the Fibershed organisation who’ve taken part in online and in-person meetings, especially members of our directory who’ve shared their local know-how and passion for ecologically restorative textiles.

In particular, a huge thanks goes to my friend Patrick Grant, without whose inspirational example I probably wouldn’t have taken on this challenge. Patrick’s willingness to collaborate with me and the SuperSlow Way team on the Homegrown Homespun project has brought this cause to a far wider audience – he even introduced King Charles to Fibershed back in 2020!

Three years in and NWEF have 3400+ instagram followers and wonderfully engaged audiences on Twitter and Facebook, many of whom are still following our journey to bring locally grown indigo linen jeans to market via Patrick’s social enterprise Community Clothing. The rationale behind the HH collaboration was to help our regional producers access natural dye facilities at scale by incentivising synthetic dye factories to begin transitioning to renewable alternatives. Great progress has been made in this regard and there is now at least one commercial dyer able to use all three ‘grand teints’ including the more challenging indigo. I’ll be sharing an update on other exciting developments in my next post that’s dedicated to the project.

NWEF have been featured in local and national press multiple times, most notably on the ‘Field to Fashion’ episode of BBC 1’s Countyfile and Radio 4’s Open Country ‘A Fabric Landscape’ show. It’s great that by the completion of our collaboration at the British Textile Biennial this October, we’ll have an even bigger community of like-minded creatives working towards the highest Climate Beneficial standards.

Introducing…

Mark Palmer has spent a lifetime in the food and farming industry. Originally from Wiltshire, he completed a degree in Agriculture at the University of Reading in 1986 and was initially involved in conventional farm management. He progressed to advising and managing a 400 acre organic vegetable farm in North Yorkshire, also working internationally with select crops while packing and processing vegetables for his own business. 

In 2015 Mark started working for the Soil Association as an inspector covering the North of England and Scotland, visiting and auditing all types of businesses from field to fork. He’s qualified to complete Red Tractor and Pasture for Life inspections and with his own company, Systems4Food he offers organic inspections, farm sustainability audits and advisory work helping farms progress down the agroecological pathway. 

He advised us how best to grow woad during phase 2 of the Homegrown Homespun project and helped design and test the pigment extraction kit. Due to the many lessons learnt during this process, we’ve since founded Homegrown Colour to continue exploring the upscale of British indigo and are trailing a one acre crop with an organic farmer during 2023.

Mark’s in-depth knowledge of Climate BeneficialTM growing principles will help British Fibreshed’s to create a verification process that’s equivalent to the USA’s but that is more appropriate to our ecology. With our ethics firmly grounded in soil health and biodiversity, we believe that in collaboration with the other UK Fibresheds, this will become the new benchmark for regenerative clothing in this country.

Anita Radini is an Italo-British Archaeobotanist and Experimental Archaeologist. She studied Natural Sciences and then Archaeology and her area of research concerns the complex interaction between people and the natural and built environments. 

In over 15 years of Arcaheobotanical work,  Anita has become interested in the loss of knowledge concerning the use of traditional natural materials in material culture as well as the disappearance of many varieties of plants used by people in the past. She also has a strong interest in the sustainability and ethically correct sourcing of raw material used in Archaeology for experimental purposes. 

In 2020 Anita began to grow flax at her allotment and since then, with Mark, has scaled up her crop. She is particularly interested in the open access seeds libraries and bringing back some forgotten varieties of flax. She now divides her time between North Yorkshire and Dublin for her new role as Ad Astra Fellow at UCD School of Archaeology, where she’s been awarded the prestigious Dan David Prize in recognition of her pioneering research highlighting the labours of the often invisible craftspeople and workers behind history’s ancient monuments and artwork. There she continues her work on under-used and almost lost varieties of flax and plant dyes. Anita believes that ancient and traditional crafts and small scale agriculture have great potential in reconnecting us to the environment. She will bring to Fibershed her knowledge of past traditions  and her network in the University, Museums and Re-enactment sectors.

Launching the Northern England Fibreshed

We feel we have a dynamic combination of skills covering the many different aspects of textiles as agriculture, academia and craft and are excited to announce that we’ve been invited to launch this new iteration of the Northern England Fibreshed during this October’s British Textile Biennial. We’re now inviting local textile growers, makers and educators to read through our criteria then apply to join our Producer’s Directory. There will be an opportunity for those with Fibreshed standard products to collaborate on this event.

It will take some time to update our website and social media platform but please note that our new region will cover both North West and North East England so please get in touch if you’re growing or making textiles using local, natural fibres and dyes and are based in one of the following counties:-

• Cumbria
• Lancashire
• Merseyside
• Cheshire
• Greater Manchester
• Yorkshire (North, East Riding, South and West)
• Tyne and Wear
• Northumberland
• County Durham

If so, please join #TheFlaxMap and Facebook discussion group. It’s open to anyone growing flax or hemp in the U.K. or Republic of Ireland.

There are now a number of growers helping revive and reshore this industry and I set up the map last summer during phase 1 of the #HomegrownHomespun project so we could share, rather than duplicate the same research and resources. With preparations for the British Textile Biennial, the map had to go on a back burner for a few months but now, as our seedlings germinate, it feels like the right time to restart the conversation.

If you’re open to working together with other like-minded linen revivers please join The Flax Map discussion group with the following details so I can add your listing to the map:-

• Your/Project/Co Name
• What textile fibre crop you are growing and how much
• Whether you’re growing for a) personal use, b) a community project, c) academic research or d) as a commercial enterprise
• Location (postcode or town)

A lot has happened since August 13th when a group of around 30 volunteers came to Higher Audley St in Blackburn to help pull and lay out our flax. It now feels like years ago but with 2022 looming, this seems the perfect time to remember the field to fabric stage of the Homegrown Homespun project.

On harvest day, we were live on Radio Lancashire and also had a brilliant time with BBC Radio 4’s Heather Simons and Ian Marchant recording ‘A Fabric Landscape’ – a programme dedicated to the Homegrown Homespun project which is available to listen to online.

Ian had previously discovered a diary from a 17th Century ancestor who worked in the linen industry, so had a special interest in our quest to reintroduce this heritage crop. He had a go at extracting woad pigment, breaking scutching and hackling some plants into fibre and especially enjoyed fashioning and modelling his own flaxen haired wig!

From Seed to Sewing Bee

Meanwhile, I managed to coax Patrick into a pair of marigolds to try some natural fabric dyeing after explaining a vision I’d had of him wearing a homegrown, hand-dyed hankie and us perhaps one day spotting him on TV with a little piece of our Blackburn indigo. I imagined our team would share a smile remembering the day we all stood in a field and mashed leaves into cloth together during our first ever harvest. As mentioned previously, I knew our woad crop had mostly failed but wanted to use what we had to share the fun of natural dyeing. It’s all too easy to write off disappointments as failures, missing other opportunities, so I bought some British peace silk and asked my mum (who loves hand stitching!) to roll the hems on 3 pocket squares/hankies. We used the fresh leaf salt rub dyeing method and discovered the unique shade of Blackburn Woad.

N.B. The fresh leaf salt rub method creates a teal rather than classic indigo blue due to other pigments such as chlorophyll and indirubin present in Woad leaves prior to extraction.

I subsequently hand embroidered each with the impromptu HH logo that emerged when dyeing aprons for our workshops and each project partner’s name, using indigo dyed thread, hurriedly posted his off to him in his 10 week filming bubble and sure enough, my vision was manifest – he wore it during the Great British Sewing Bee Christmas Special which aired on BBC 1 last week and we all tuned in and remembered standing in a field in Blackburn, mashing woad leaves into silk together during our first ever harvest.

Extracting Fibre and Dye

In the 10 weeks between harvest and the end of October when we were to showcase our results, we accomplished what we’ve since realised was a astonishing feat. Learning on the job, we discovered that flax farmers usually overwinter their crops to dry thoroughly following a 2-6 weeks retting, yet we had only 10 weeks to complete the entire plant to cloth process. Herein lay our compromise and challenge. We were advocating regenerative, slow fashion and textiles, yet had a great opportunity to raise awareness of these ideals by rushing to meet the exciting deadline of the British Textile Biennial – which we did, with a few edits and sleepless nights!

Retting was the first stage and it became evident that this is one of the crucial keys and skills (we didn’t yet have!) to a successful fibre crop. There was a panic due to large variances in our stem thicknesses, causing some stems to have rotten after just 2 weeks. We were advised to stook (see above) the entire crop and get it undercover. Better to be under retted than over! Our 5kg of seed yielded 96 stooks – a few of which were sent to Simon at Flaxland for processing. The rest are being stored and will go towards the stock needed for our 2023 upscale.

In addition to extracting fibre, I also needed to release the mystical blue dye from within our woad and Japanese indigo plants and it was great sharing this magical process with our volunteers.

Growing Slow Textiles

I can’t fully verbalise to those who haven’t experienced indigo pigment extraction and dyeing, just how miraculous it feels to see blue appear on fabric or yarn from green leaves you’ve grown yourself. What I can do is offer you a chance to share the experience with me next year as I’ll be guiding a group through a 9 month ‘Growing Slow Textiles’ holistic immersion into flax and indigo. Details to follow but for now, if you click the link, you can join a holding page on Instagram where I’ll announce it soon.

British Textile Biennial

On an incredibly tight schedule, coordinating a team in various parts of the country, our flax plants were hand-spun in time for the start of the month long British Textile Biennial last October. This took Carole Bowman (weft) and Amanda Hannaford (warp) about 70 hours over 3 weeks.

The weft yarn had arrived the day before it was due to be dyed, so got a swift but vigorous double scouring as I prepared materials for the workshop. I don’t think anyone realised as they were all enjoying indigo dyeing wrapping cloths but my face dropped when the HH weft came out of the vat! It was changing colour only slightly – a lot less than usual. It evidently hadn’t scoured enough – had it been under retted so still clinging to some of its lignins and pectins? I spent another day after the workshop re-scouring and dyeing so it was just right for the weavers to start the following Wednesday.

Weaving Warp and Weft

We’d amended from an adult pair of jeans, to toddler sized dungarees based on the time our spinners could allocate, yet once the weaving started new challenges presented themselves. Even with a £15K state-of-the-art loom kindly provided on loan by MMU and two of the best weavers in the country, Kirsty McDougall and Sally Holditch, it proved incredibly difficult to weave with our homegrown, hand spun linen warp. I’m not a weaver and the terminology baffles me but words I do understand like ‘sticky’ ‘fluffy’ and ‘tangled’ were used a lot – along with some expletives! However, the ‘ends per inch’ were adjusted, prayers and incantations uttered and by some miracle of talent and persistence, cloth was woven.

Brave Beetling

A decision then had to be made whether to risk subjecting this fragile cloth to the vigorous beetling process which in this case would involve dampening, then pressing and rolling with a pipe or wooden rolling pin. This transforms ‘loom state’ warp and weft into a coherent, draping cloth. Opinions were divided – so we went for it! How else would we know the cloth’s potential?

Our Historic Cloth

Having thought we’d developed a unique, hand spun cloth, we were stunned to discover a newly published book ‘Jeans Before Blue Jeans’ by Marzia Cataldi Gallo showing an almost exact version of our denim on the front cover. This caused us to pause for thought about the significance of what we’ve made and reconsider cutting into it.

Denim consultant, historian and lecturer at Central St. Martins and the Royal College of Art, Mohsin Sajid commented, “this is a watershed moment in the industry. I believe you are the first to home-grow indigo linen denim, at least since Levi’s introduced synthetic indigo in 1897, if not longer, so you should be really proud. You’ve proved the concept and raised so much awareness about how hard these processes were and how much we take fabric for granted.”

Despite one of the purposes of Homegrown Homespun being to eventually bring indigo linen jeans to market, we decided to let the uncut material speak for itself. Patrick requested I embroider the outline of a trouser leg pattern to indicate our intent and acknowledge how far we got in our original quest.

The cloth is being exhibited in Blackburn Museum until 16th January 2021, so if you can, go along and see it.

Spreading the Word

I’ve been asked to speak about my work on the HH project quite a bit lately so am including links to catch-ups. I was interviewed in episode 4 of Amber Butchart’s ‘Cloth Cultures’ podcast about linen and was then part of the Making Matters x Levi’s Digital & British Council panel discussion she subsequently hosted at Blackburn Cathedral. I took part in the (unrecorded) Fashion Open Studio COP 26 event, ‘Renaturing Fashion’ and the RSA’s ‘The Evolution of Fashion’.

I’ve also been a guest speaker and lecturer at Tauheedul Islamic Girl’s School, Blackburn College, Liverpool John Moore’s University and Edge Hill University’s Sustainability Festival.

Making Provenance Fashionable

So, to summarise this first 2021 phase, the Homegrown Homespun indigo linen denim is 100% made in England with the blue weft yarn being the produce of our first flax and woad harvest this year in Lancashire. Our deliberately ambitious plan to grow an entire pair of jeans sought to expose the difficulties of working ethically and sustainably in a country with no facilities to process its native arable textile crops. 

To highlight the fashion industry’s huge potential to sequester carbon from our over-heated atmosphere back into our depleted soil, a team of experts and volunteers worked entirely by hand; growing, spinning, naturally dyeing and weaving the way our ancestors did. We sought to prioritise the regeneration of our local environment and the people who rely upon it, so willingly adapted and amended our outcome to reflect the many lessons that coming back into balance with the ecosystem offers humanity. 

The shift in human behaviour needed to evolve from being an extractor species to a restorer species means the fashion industry must also shift from selling products regardless of their provenance, to instead making ethical, regenerative processes fashionable. As Fibershed help launch #MakeTheLabelCount we see the emphasis shifting away from the veneer of a deceptive product advertising campaign to purchasing decisions based on supply chain transparency.

We believe this cloth epitomises the beautiful struggle of all those involved who are committed to ‘being the change’. The love and hopes of so many are woven into this humble fabric and the task now begins to create the midscale facilities required to upscale to full production via Community Clothing in time for the 2023 British Textile Biennial.